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Motorcycle Myths That Need To Die (Before You Do)

Motorcycle Myths That Need To Die (Before You Do)

by | Oct 2, 2025 | Fastback Facts, General Content, Highlights

Motorcycle Myths That Need to Die (Before You Do)

Let’s clear the air and bust some long-standing myths throughout the motorcycle community. Whether they’re about safety, gear, performance, or maintenance, buying into a myth can cost your hard earned money and a slightly shameful visit to a local motorcycle shop. At Fastback Moto, we believe in cutting through the BS and helping you stay safe on the road with smart, safe, and fact-based riding practices.

Whether you’re on the road, on the trail, or in the garage, here’s what’s real and what’s BS.

🛡️ SAFETY & GEAR 

❌ MYTH

❌ “Full-face helmets block your vision.”

Not true. DOT- and ECE-certified full-face helmets must meet strict field-of-vision standards. typically provide a 210° field of view—more than your own peripheral vision can process. If your helmet feels limiting, it’s likely a fit issue, not a design flaw.

❌ “Helmets increase the risk of spinal injury.”

This myth came from a debunked study in the 1980s. Modern helmets distribute force to reduce trauma to the brain and neck.

❌ “Only wusses wear protective gear.”

This one’s as tired as an unbalanced chain. Protective gear isn’t about fear—it’s about respect: for yourself, your passengers, and the road.

❌ “Leather offers the best protection.”

Leather’s tough—but many modern textile suits outperform it in abrasion resistance, weatherproofing, and armor placement.

❌ “You don’t need gear for short rides.”

Most accidents happen close to home, not on long hauls.

❌“Lane splitting is dangerous.”

In Utah, lane filtering is legal in certain situations. It’s not the same as California-style splitting, and when done correctly, it’s been shown to reduce rear-end collisions.

✅ FACT

✅ We recommend properly fitted full-face helmets for the best protection, visibility, and comfort.

Bonus: it protects your face from wind, bugs, rain, and road debris.

✅ We recommend: Look into gear like Leatt’s helmet + neck brace system—designed to reduce rotational forces and protect your cervical spine. Better tech, smarter safety.

Better Tech, Smarter Safety

✅ We recommend: Find gear that’s CE-rated, fits right, and is comfortable enough that you’ll actually wear it. The best gear is the gear you’ll put on every ride, even for a quick trip.

✅ We recommend: Look at textiles with CE Level 2 armor, high-denier fabrics, and impact zones. The best gear for you is what fits, protects, and breathes well enough to use consistently.

✅ We recommend: Always gear up. Even for a 5-minute ride, gloves, a helmet, jacket, and boots can prevent lifelong injuries.

✅ We recommend: Know and follow Utah lane filtering laws, and do it safely: low speed, awareness, and consideration.

🔧 MAINTENANCE MYTHS

❌ MYTH

❌“Follow the pressure printed on the tire.”

That’s the maximum pressure, not the ideal one for your bike.

❌“If my bike ran fine in winter, it’s good to go now.”

After winter, your battery might be weak, tire pressure low, fuel stale, or carbs gummy.

❌“Used bikes save money.”

Sometimes. Other times, they’re a money pit in disguise.

❌“Heavy-duty tubes are always better.”

HD tubes are great for off-road abuse, but they can overheat or be harder to change for daily riders.

❌“Fuel additives boost performance or fix bad gas.”

Some stabilizers help keep fuel fresh, but they won’t “fix” old gas or act as miracle performance boosters.

❌”Regular revving keeps your engine healthy.”

Free-revving while idling just builds heat, wears parts, and wastes fuel.

✅ FACT

✅ We recommend: Always check your owner’s manual or swingarm sticker for the correct PSI, adjusted for load and riding conditions.

✅ We recommend: A full spring check. Want help? Schedule a pre-season tune-up or check out our Winter Storage Tips to avoid issues next year.

✅ We recommend: Never buy blind. Schedule our 30-minute pre-purchase inspection to catch hidden issues before they cost you.

✅ We recommend: Match your tube to your terrain and usage. Ask us if you’re not sure.

✅ We recommend: Use additives like STA-BIL during storage, and always run fresh, high-quality fuel—not lawnmower leftovers.

✅ We recommend: Take it for a real ride, or use a battery tender during downtime. Cold revving = no real benefit.

🔧 PERFORMANCE & CUSTOMIZATION MYTHS

❌ MYTH

❌“Aftermarket parts always improve performance”

Some do, but many aftermarket exhausts or intakes reduce performance if not tuned properly. You may lose torque or run lean.

❌“American made is always better.”

We love U.S. brands, however, even Harley, Indian, and big-name gear producers use global parts. The truth is: quality varies by component, not country. 

❌“The newest model is always the best.”

New bikes often mean new tech. Although it doesn’t always mean better reliability or value.

❌”I’ve been riding for years. I don’t need a training course.”

Experience is great—but skills fade. And road conditions, laws, and bikes evolve.

✅ FACT

✅ We recommend: Tune with intent. Stay tuned for our upcoming post on Aftermarket Mods We Actually Recommend.

✅ We recommend: Focus on proven build quality and user experience. A well-made part, wherever it’s assembled. 

✅ We recommend: Check out our upcoming feature on New vs. Legendary Bikes for perspective.

✅ We recommend: Take an advanced or refresher course every few years. Many insurance companies even offer discounts.

🚦 Final Thoughts: Let’s Keep Each Other Rolling

Whether you’re wrenching, riding, or just getting back in the saddle, having accurate information matters. The more truth we share as a riding community, the safer—and more fun—it gets for all of us.

✅ Want to ride smarter this season?

  • Bring your bike in for a spring checkup or safety inspection
  • Schedule a 30-min pre-purchase inspection before buying used
  • Ask us any myth you’ve heard—and let us bust it with facts

👇 Drop your questions, comments, or myths you’ve heard in the comments below or swing by the shop. We’re always down to talk bikes—and set the record straight.

How to Pick a Motorcycle Shop you can Trust

How to Pick a Motorcycle Shop you can Trust

by | Jul 17, 2025 | Fastback Facts, General Content

How to Spot a Credible Shop

Finding a good motorcycle shop shouldn’t feel like rolling the dice – but for a lot of riders, it does. You drop your bike off, cross your fingers, and hope you get it back running right without feeling ripped off. Unfortunately, in the powersports world, that’s a story we hear way too often. 

Some shops cut corners. Some overcharge. Some just don’t listen. And others are more focused on selling the next shiny thing than making sure your current ride is safe and solid.

So, how do you know who to trust? Let’s talk about how to spot a credible shop, and where Fastback Moto fits in that picture. 

Understand the Different Types of Shops

Not all motorcycle businesses operate the same way, and knowing what kind of shop you’re dealing with can help set expectations.

1. Dealerships (Sales-Driven Shops) 

Dealerships are great if your buying a brand-new bike or need warranty work. Their business model revolves around sales first, service second. Service is often seen as a support department, which means their techs are busy, labor rates are high, and you might wait weeks for an appointment.

2. Independent Shops (Service-Driven Businesses)

Independent shops like Fastback Moto focus on what happens after the sale, keeping your bike on the road. We’re not here to push a new model; we’re here to make yours last as long as possible. Our work depends on reputation and word of mouth, not corporate quotas or bonuses. 

3. Hybrid or Hobby Shops 

These are often smaller or newer outfits that take on work here and there, sometimes great, sometimes not. The issue is consistency. One bike might get full attention while another gets rushed because thy lack systems, staffing, or standards. 

 

What to Look for in a Credible Shop 

Whether you ride a Harley, Honda, or Husky, here are the signs of a shop you can trust your machine with:

✅ Transparency
You should always get clear communication before and during a job — no surprise charges, no vague “we’ll see what it needs.” A good shop explains what’s wrong, what it costs, and why.

✅ Skill & Experience
Ask questions! A real shop won’t get defensive. They’ll gladly tell you their experience with your make or model, and even show photos of previous work.

✅ Clean, Organized Workspace
A clean shop is a sign of pride. Tools in bins, parts labeled, workstations neat — it all reflects how they’ll treat your bike.

✅ Good Documentation
Shops that track work with detailed notes and pictures are the ones that stand behind what they do. It’s proof, not promises.

✅ Respect for You and Your Bike
If you ever feel dismissed, rushed, or ignored, walk away. A trustworthy shop treats every customer with respect, whether you ride a sportbike, cruiser, or dirt bike.

Red Flags: Spotting Shady Workmanship or Bad Advice

If something feels off, it probably is. Look out for these warning signs before handing over your keys:

  • Vague estimates or no written quote. A good shop should explain what’s being done and what it costs.
  • They badmouth other shops instead of focusing on their own quality.
  • “That’ll fix it” without diagnosing the problem. Real techs verify, test, and confirm.
  • No clear timeline or communication. Silence and missed updates usually mean disorganization.
  • Pressure to do unnecessary repairs or “upgrades” you didn’t ask for.
  • Poor documentation or missing parts tracking. If they can’t show where your parts went, that’s a problem.
  • No test ride or quality check before pickup. Every proper job ends with a verification run.
  • Inconsistent or sloppy notes. If they can’t clearly explain what was done, they might not fully know.

Shops We Trust and Recommend

It might seem counterproductive to recommend other shops, but at Fastback Moto, we’re all on the same team. We’d rather see riders on the road safely and confidently than watch someone give up after a bad experience.

We don’t want to fix other shops’ mistakes, we want to raise the standard so every rider gets the quality and care they deserve. When good shops work together and share knowledge, everyone wins.

We’re proud to share the road with other businesses that take pride in their craft, serve their niche well, and care about the community just like we do. With that being said, here are a few shops we know and respect – each with their own specialty and strengths:

Shop Name Shop Strengths Link
Blakline Speedshop Harley-Davidson  specialists who know their way around the big twins like nobody else. Solid craftsmanship, straight talk, and all-around good people. Instagram
Blue Planet Scooters The go-to spot for scooter riders Facebook
Hell's Monkey Custom builds and performance work done right. If you like your bike loud, wild, and one-of-a-kind, this crew delivers Facebook
Charged Cycle Works Electric motorcycle pros who are leading the charge (litterally) in Utah's EV power sports scene. Website
Salt City Builds Fabrication, designe, and full builds with serious attention to detail. A true staple in the Utah custom community. Website
The Chapel A creative shop and community hub for riders who appreciate craftsmanship, design, and culture. Always something cool rolling out of there. Website
Turn & Learn For riders who want to get hands-on and learn how to wrench themselves, this is the spot. Education, empowerment, and skill-sharing done right. Website

At Fastback Moto, we know we’re not the only good shop out there — and that’s a good thing. Riders deserve options, collaboration, and quality wherever they go. We’re proud to be part of a growing community of builders, tuners, and techs who all share the same goal.

Interview Your Shop – Questions to Ask Before You Commit

A good shop welcomes questions. Here are a few that separate the real deal from the guessers:

  • “Can you show me your process for diagnosing this issue?”  You are looking for structure – not guesses.
  • “What parts and brands do you typically use?”Quality shops have preffered suppliers they trust. (OEM, SKF, HiFlo, EBC, Moose Racing, JD Jetting, etc.)
  • “Do you provide photos or notes of work done?” Transparency matters. Good shops document as much as possible.
  • “How do you handle warranty or comeback issues?” A professional shop has a clear policy not excuses.
  • “Who will actually be working on my bike?” You should know whether it’s an apprentice, a lead tech, or the owner.
  • “Can you explain why this repair is necessary?” Honest shops educate you – shady ones dodge details
  • “Do you test ride after service?” If not, how do they know it’s truly fixed?

Put Your Money Where the Miles Are

Anyone can buy an ad, but not every shop earns their reputation from real riders. Ask around. Talk to people whose bikes are actually reliable, well tuned, and ridden often.

Chances are, they’ll point you toward the places that care more about your bike than your wallet. 

Where Fastback Moto Fits In

At Fastback Moto, we built our business because  of these industry frustrations. We are riders first, tired of long wait times, high prices, and bikes that still weren’t fixed right. 

So we build something different: 

  • We communicate. You’ll always know what’s halppening with your bike and why. 
  • We document everything. No mystery charges or “forgotten” details. 
  • We train and hold ourselves accountable. Every machanic is trained to continually learn, and to not cut corners. 
  • We’re honest. If a job’s too big for your budget, we’ll help you plan it out instead of pushing it through. 

Our goal is simple, to be the kind of shop we always wished existed: one that earns your trust, not just your money. 

When to Call the Professionals

When to Call the Professionals

by | Jun 12, 2025 | Fastback Facts, General Content

Knowing When to Wrench and When to Phone a Friend

At Fastback Moto, we love seeing riders get hands-on with their machines. There’s nothing more satisfying than spinning your own wrenches, learning your bike inside and out, and hitting the trail or road knowing you made it happen.

We get it — times are tough, and saving a few bucks where you can makes sense. But we’ve also seen what happens when a “quick fix” turns into a full-blown teardown because someone skipped a step, used the wrong torque spec, or cross-threaded something important. (No shame — we’ve all been there.)

But sometimes, the smartest (and cheapest) move is knowing when to hand it off to the pros.  There’s a point where DIY turns into D-I-Why-did-I-do-this. So, here’s a quick guide to knowing when it’s time to call in Fastback Moto before your project eats your weekend and your wallet.

Why We Support DIY

If you ride off-road, enduro, or adventure, you should know some basics. It’s not about bragging rights — it’s about safety.

You’re 20 miles into the backcountry, no cell service, and your chain snaps. Or your tire goes flat. Or your clutch cable decides to call it quits. Knowing how to make simple trailside repairs can literally get you home in one piece.

That’s why we always encourage riders to learn the fundamentals:

  • Oil & filter changes
  • Chain & sprocket care
  • Brake pad inspection & replacement
  • Basic electrical troubleshooting
  • Tire and tube repair

We’ll walk you through these jobs or give you pointers if you’re trying to tackle them on your own. There’s pride and safety in learning.

When to Call the Professionals

That said, there’s a point where DIY turns into D-I-Why-did-I-do-this. Here’s a quick guide to knowing when it’s time to call in Fastback Moto before your project eats your weekend — and your wallet.

  1. You’re not 100% sure what went wrong.
    If your bike is running weird and you’re guessing what to replace, stop. Modern engines, fuel systems, and electronics can be tricky. You might end up throwing parts (and money) at the wrong problem.
  2. The job requires specialized tools.
    Some repairs call for things like torque wrenches, valve shim kits, or diagnostic software. If you don’t have it, you could damage more than you fix.
  3. You’re dealing with brakes, suspension, or electrical systems.
    These are safety-critical and can go south fast. A pinched brake line, misaligned fork, or wiring short can ruin a ride — or worse.
  4. The bolt won’t budge (or you already snapped it).
    Every mechanic has fought the “stuck bolt battle,” but once you’re into extractors and helicoils, it’s probably time for us to take over.
  5. You started taking photos “so you remember how it goes back together.”
    If you’re starting to feel unsure or overwhelmed, that’s a good sign to stop before things start to fall apart. If something isn’t lining up or you’re not sure what’s next, bring it in before the parts pile starts growing. We’ll help you sort it out, explain what’s going on, and get the project back on track.

Fastback Moto is here to Help, Not Hassle

We’re not here to gate keep. We’re here to keep riders riding. Whether you’re doing your own oil change or a full top-end rebuild, we’ll answer questions, recommend parts, and even inspect your work if you just want a second opinion before you hit the road.

We’d rather see you safe and confident than stranded or frustrated. And if a project ever goes sideways, we’ll get you back on track — fast.

Work Smarter – Not Harder

Doing it yourself is awesome, until it isn’t. There’s no shame in calling in the pros when the job outgrows your tools, time or skill. Sometimes spending a little now saves a lot later.

At Fastback Moto, we’ve seen it all — the stripped bolts, the “mystery noises,” the “my buddy said it just needed a carb clean” bikes. We’ll fix it right, explain what went wrong, and help you learn from it. That way, next time, you’re one step closer to being your own best mechanic.

So go ahead, grab that wrench. Learn. Try. Get your hands dirty.
And when you hit that moment where it feels like too much, call us.

Ride It Like It’s 1979: Vintage Maintenance Tips That Work

Ride It Like It’s 1979: Vintage Maintenance Tips That Work

by | May 29, 2025 | Fastback Facts, General Content, Off-Road Content, Street Content

Keeping Your Vintage Bike on the Road Where It Belongs

Most riders have that one old-school bike they’ll never forget. Whether it was the first one you rode, the one that got away, or the one you swore you’d fix up someday. These bikes aren’t just machines; they’re connections to the past, reminders of who we were when we first fell in love with riding. Tyler’s first bike was a Rupp mini when he was just 4 years old. So our love for vintage bikes runs deep. Whether it’s a dusty backyard find, a family heirloom that holds memories, or the bike you’ve always wanted and now you have, we get it these bikes still matter.

While there’s no strict definition, bikes from the late older than the early 1990s are often labeled vintage, especially if they bring to mind a sense of nostalgia. These bikes are recognized for their simplistic quality and design.

Working on older motorcycles isn’t always fast, easy or lucrative. Nonetheless, for us, it is a labor of love. It takes mechanical know-how, time, patience, and most of all, respect for how these bikes were built. That’s why Fastback Moto is one of the few shops that actually welcomes vintage bikes. We enjoy the process: the detective work, the tuning, the challenge — and that incredible moment when an old motor breathes again.

Whether you ride yours regularly or keep it tucked away as a collector’s piece, a little care goes a long way toward keeping it alive for years to come.

Tips to Keep Your Vintage Bike in Top Shape

✅ Use ethanol-free gas

Vintage rubber and gaskets weren’t made to handle modern ethanol blends. Ethanol-free fuel helps reduce wear and makes cold starts easier — especially if your bike sits for long periods.

See https://fastbackmoto.com/fuel-facts-every-rider-should-know/

 

✅ Treat your tank right

If your tank has rust or damage it will need to be cleaned and resealed. If this is the case the rust and debris will need to completely stripped and removed before the tank gets resealed. be avoid Kream coatings at all costs. They will flake off and clog your fuel system. Instead, use Caswell epoxy, which bonds better and holds up to ethanol.

Here’s the product we recommend:  https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html   

✅ Stick with OEM carbs when possible

Don’t toss your original carburetors. Most of the time, we can clean, rebuild, and re-tune them. Aftermarket carbs often cause more tuning problems than they solve.

✅ Don’t skip basic maintenance, even in storage

If your bike isn’t ridden often:

  • Drain the tank instead of relying on fuel stabilizers
  • Keep the battery charged by starting it every couple weeks or disconnect the battery entirely
  • Check tire pressure if sitting for long periods of time and before each ride. Tires should also be changed every 5 years regardless of tread wear.
  • Lubricate the chain
  • Ride the bike every few weeks if possible to keep the clutch and seals well lubricated.
  • Keep the bike in a garage or out of direct exposure to the elements if possible.
    UV exposure and time make vintage plastics and wiring brittle. When working on the bike, use care when unplugging connectors or removing covers to avoid cracking old parts.

Thinking of Buying a Vintage Bike? Here’s What to Watch For:

Look for the following:
  • A matching engine and frame VIN
  • Signs of original paint or decals
  • An intact wiring harness (no wild splices or electrical tape patches)
  • A clean title (or at least a verifiable bill of sale)
  • Compression — we can test this for you
  • How complete it is: missing parts = more expense later
Red flags:
  • Missing side covers or gauges
  • Rust in the tank (a little is fixable, a lot is a project)
  • Rebuilt title with no history
  • Cracked engine cases or stripped bolt holes
  • No proof of when it last ran.

If you’re unsure, bring it by or send us pics. We’ll help you figure out if it’s a solid find or a money pit in disguise.

Fuel Facts Every Rider Should Know

Fuel Facts Every Rider Should Know

by | May 15, 2025 | Fastback Facts, General Content, Highlights, Off-Road Content, Street Content

Fuel Facts To Save You Money

At Fastback Moto, one of the most common issues we see — especially after a bike’s been parked through the winter — is old fuel causing hard starts, rough idling, or bikes that won’t fire up at all. The first thing we look for is bad fuel. After about 30 to 60 days, gas begins to lose its volatility and breaks down. As it degrades, it can leave behind a sticky, varnish-like residue that clogs up fuel systems.

Throw ethanol into the mix, and the problem gets worse. Ethanol absorbs moisture from the air, speeding up fuel breakdown and leading to corrosion inside your tank, lines, and carburetors.

Carbureted bikes are hit the hardest, with tiny jets and passages getting plugged up by gummy residue. But even fuel-injected bikes aren’t off the hook injectors can stick or gum up if bad fuel sits too long.

We’ve pulled apart tanks, fuel pumps and carbs full of thick, foul-smelling fuel residue more times than we can count.

But here’s the good news: with a little know-how and a couple of smart habits, you can avoid most of it.

We’re here to help you get the most out of your bike, your ride season, and your wallet.

“Choosing the right fuel isn’t just about increasing horsepower…”

Octane Matters

Choosing the right octane fuel isn’t just about increasing horsepower, it’s about giving your engine the clean, reliable fuel it was built for to protect it from unnecessary damage.

What Is Octane?

Octane rating measures a fuel’s resistance to pre-ignition (knocking) when fuel ignites too early in the combustion cycle.

The higher the octane, the more pressure the fuel can handle before igniting.

Here are some common Octane Levels and when to use them:

Fuel Table
Octane Rating Where You'll Find It Best For
85-87 (Regular) Most Gas Stations DO NOT USE IN YOUR BIKE
85-87 (Mid-Grade) Some Gas Stations DO NOT USE IN YOUR BIKE
91-93 (Premium) Select/Performance-focused Stations High-compression sportbikes, performance cruisers, touring bikes with advanced ignition timing
91-93 Ethanol-Free Specialty Pumps, Marinas, Power Sports Stations Carburated motorcycles, seasonal bikes, classics, bikes in storage, and 2-stroke premix applications, Vintage Bikes

Sticking to the minimum octane rating in your bike’s owner’s manual means it will run smoother with better throttle response and fewer headaches.

High-performance motorcycles, sportbikes, and some cruisers with higher compression ratios often require 91 octane or higher. Using a lower grade than recommended can cause pre-ignition (knocking), leading to excessive heat in the combustion chamber, closing faster than intended. Over time, this puts stress on your valves, valve seats, and piston crowns, potentially leading to premature wear or engine damage.

What Does It Mean to “Bend a Valve” on a Motorcycle?

Inside your motorcycle’s engine, valves open and close at precise times to let air-fuel mixture in (intake valve) and let exhaust gases out (exhaust valve). These valves move up and down rapidly in sync with the piston’s motion.

A bent valve happens when one of those valves makes contact with the piston while it’s closing, or when excessive heat, pre-ignition (knock), or mechanical failure causes the valve to warp.

This prevents the valve from sealing properly against the valve seat, leading to:

  • Loss of compression
  • Misfires
  • Rough running or no-start
  • Further damage to the cylinder, piston crown, or head if ignored

On a running engine, this is bad news. The bike might still run, but poorly; and continuing to ride it risks more expensive damage.

On a running engine, this is bad news. The bike might still run, but poorly; and continuing to ride it risks more expensive damage.

How Much Does It Cost to Fix a Bent Valve on a Motorcycle?

Costs depend on your bike, how many valves are damaged, and whether it’s a single-cylinder, twin, or multi-cylinder engine. Here’s a typical range for a shop like Fastback Moto:

Fuel Table
Service Type Estimated Pricing
Valve clearance check/adjustment $250–$450
Remove & inspect cylinder head $350–$600
Valve replacement (single valve) $80–$180 (part only)
Valve job (grind, replace, reseat 2–4 valves, new gaskets) $800–$1,500+
Top-end rebuild (if piston/cylinder is damaged too) $1,500–$2,500+

It adds up fast because of the labor involved. The cylinder head has to come off, valves inspected or replaced, seats cut, and everything reassembled with fresh gaskets and a valve clearance adjustment afterward.

The fix? Just fuel up with what your bike calls for. If you’re not sure, ask us — we’re always happy to help. It’s a small move that makes a big difference in ride quality and long-term health of the bike.

Ethanol-Free Fuel

Ethanol is a type of alcohol blended into most pump fuels to reduce emissions, unfortunately ethanol is rough on motorcycles. It’s hygroscopic nature absorbs water from the air. The longer your fuel sits, the more moisture it takes on. In bikes, especially carbureted models, this leads to:

Why We Love Ethanol-Free Fuel

If you’ve hung out at the shop, you’ve probably heard us talk about this. 91 Octane Ethanol-free fuel is a motorcycle’s best friend — especially for carbureted bikes, vintage rides, and anything that might sit for a bit.

Ethanol is fine for cars that run every day, but for bikes:

  • It pulls moisture from the air
  • Breaks down faster
  • Corrodes the inside your fuel tank
  • Can cause corrosion and gum up tiny fuel passages

Using ethanol-free fuel in your motorcycle means:

  • Easier starts after storage
  • Fewer carb issues
  • Cleaner-running engines
  • Less money spent on repairs

Keeping fresh, high-quality fuel in we bike and choosing the right octane does more than protect your engine — it saves you money, time, and headaches during the ride season. Bikes that run clean fuel with the proper octane experience better throttle response, easier starts, and smoother idle. You’ll also avoid costly carb cleaning, fuel pump replacements, or injector service, which are often caused by fuel-related issues. The better care you take of your fuel system, the less you’ll spend on preventable repairs — leaving more in your wallet for proper maintenance, suitable upgrades, gear, gas, and road trips.

Is it a little more per gallon? Sure. But compared to a carb rebuild ($200–$450+) or injector service, it’s a solid investment.

Find Ethanol Free Gas Near You!

Fuel for 2-Stroke Motorcycles 

2-stroke engines require pre-mixed fuel (gas + 2-stroke oil) and typically run best on 91 octane or ethanol-free fuel. Ethanol blends break down faster, attract moisture, and can lean out your mix, risking a seized piston or accelerated wear.

  • Best practice: Use 91+ octane ethanol-free fuel with a high-quality 2-stroke oil mixed to the ratio recommended by your manufacturer (commonly 32:1 or 50:1).
  • If ethanol-free isn’t available, use the highest octane possible and never let it sit long.

    Why Octane (and Ethanol Free) Matters

    We are all for saving money where you can but lower quality fuel in your bike is NOT the way to do it

    • Lower-than-recommended octane can cause engine knock, overheat valves, and damage piston crowns over time — especially in high-performance or high-compression bikes.
    • High-ethanol fuel attracts water, breaks down quickly, and can cause corrosion, clogged jets, or gummed-up carbs — especially bad news for older bikes and carbureted engines.
    • Ethanol-free fuel stays stable longer, burns cleaner, and is ideal for motorcycles especially those with limited use or seasonal storage.

    One of the things we get asked about are fuel stabilizers, octane boosters, and fuel system additives. While some can help in specific situations, at Fastback Moto we generally don’t recommend them as a solution. Here’s why:

    • Most additives are a band-aid, not a fix. If your fuel is old or your carb is dirty, no bottle from the parts store is going to undo varnish or clean clogged jets properly.
    • Many additives are designed for cars, not motorcycles. Bikes, especially carbureted models, have much smaller fuel passages and different tolerances.
    • They can slow down fuel breakdown if you can’t get ethanol-free gas or if your bike will sit for a month or two. But nothing beats fresh, high octane fuel and draining your carbs and/or tank for storage.

    Fuel Stabilizers & Additives: Do You Really Need Them?

    We get it, you plan to ride, then before you know it a couple months fly by. Sometimes you’re tempted to dump a little something in the tank when a bike’s been sitting, or when you’ve only got questionable fuel around. Maybe you found a can of gas in the shed, or thought about using “lawnmower fuel” to get by. Unfortunately, fuel from storage cans or lawn equipment is rarely fresh, clean, or high enough octane for your motorcycle. It breaks down faster, collects moisture, and can leave varnish or debris that clogs carb jets and fuel injectors.

    If gas has been sitting for a while, drain it before starting it. Popular stabilizers like Star Tron or SeaFoam can slow down fuel breakdown, but we still do NOT recommend even if used sparingly. It is always better to drain the fuel to avoid issues altogether

    When in doubt? Skip the addatives and focus on good fuel habits. It’s cheaper, safer, and works every time.

    Final Word from the Fastback Crew

    Your fuel choices directly affect how your bike runs, how often you need service, and how much you enjoy your ride.

    Not sure what octane your bike needs? Wondering if that fuel in your tank is still good? Or maybe you’re hearing a weird knock or dealing with a sticky throttle after sitting for a while. Either way, swing by Fastback Moto. Tyler and the crew have dealt with just about every fuel-related issue you can think of. Whether it’s a quick check, a fuel flush, or a carb rebuild, we’ll help prevent avoidable service work keep your bike running properly so you can get back to what matters: riding.

    A little attention to fuel now saves you money, downtime, and headaches later.

    Now, get out there and ride. 😉